Parry Peak (13,392') via Mt. Bancroft

On Saturday, I touched my first real summit since mid-January: 13,392-foot Parry Peak. It wasn’t a super emotional moment, to be honest. I was only sidelined about 12 weeks, which is absolutely nothing compared with most surgeries. If I’d had an ACL tear or a rotator cuff injury, my recovery time would have doubled or even tripled. I have nothing but respect and well wishes for anyone out there suffering through much worse.

Reaching the top also wasn’t a huge leap in my progression. It was the product of weeks of physical therapy and smaller hikes, including one to 12,100’ in the same general area. Still, it was an ethereal feeling to once again stand on an alpine summit, with miles and miles of unobstructed views of the mountains I love.

James Peak and Rocky Mountain National Park

I couldn’t have asked for a better crew. Kate and I had planned this hike for a week or two, but our friends James, Paige and Ben joined at the last minute. It was especially good to spend time with James, who will be moving to California in June.

We rendezvoused at the trailhead outside of Alice, Colo., a bit after 7 a.m. I hadn’t done much research, but I’d climbed adjacent Mt. Bancroft via the classic and technical East Ridge a couple years ago. I knew the Southeast Ridge of Bancroft was super mellow, and from the Bancroft summit Parry Peak was only a hop, skip and a jump away. 

My estimated time for the trip was six hours. Needless to say I was surprised to be staggering back to the car, utterly exhausted, nearly nine hours later. This was mostly my fault, as the required distance was much longer than I'd anticipated – somewhere between 10 and 12 miles. We also spent a lot of time socializing and lollygagging on summits.

At any rate, the weather was pretty darn good for mid-April. It was overcast and slightly windy as Sunday’s impending storm rolled in, but the temperature was downright balmy, skyrocketing into the 40s.

We snowshoed up a Forest Service Road to Loch Lomond, then traversed over Bancroft’s East Ridge to the plateau dominated by Lake Caroline. We gratefully stashed our snowshoes here, as the rest of the hike looked mostly dry. The route circled the bottom of Lake Caroline until we ascended a mellow slope to the crest of the Southeast Ridge. From there, it was a simple ridge walk on snow, tundra and talus to Bancroft’s summit.

False summit of Mt. Bancroft

Happy pups on the final snow slope up Mt. Bancroft

After a long break, we set off for the true goal of the day, ranked 13er Parry Peak. The connecting ridge went quick and easy, with the most interesting part coming near the top of Parry where one has to angle left around a large cornice. We found a safe line without much trouble and enjoyed the warm, windless summit. Our stay was cut short by darkening clouds.

The snow storm held nicely, however, and we took another extended break during our re-summit of Bancroft. Following the path of some skiers, we decided to descend straight down a moderate snow slope to Lake Caroline, rather than retrace our steps along the undulating Southeast Ridge. James glissaded, but I’m still babying my shoulder and the rest of the group joined me in plunge-stepping down. This decision saved us at least half an hour. 

Me, Remy and Kate on Parry Peak

The gang on Mt. Bancroft (again)

Parry Peak, from Mt. Bancroft

Unfortunately, James wasn’t wearing gaiters and his calves got pretty badly scraped when his pant legs slid up while glissading on neve. I got to put my recently acquired Wilderness First Aid certification to use patching him up. I’ll send him the bill for the gauze and bandages.

We located our snowshoe stash and staggered back down the road to the trailhead. Below treeline, the wind died completely and we baked in the afternoon heat. It was the first time since October I felt comfortable in only baselayers. We finally reached the cars, much more tired than expected, at about 4:15 p.m. James rushed home to tend his wounds, while I enjoyed a burger the size of my head with Kate, Ben and Paige at Capitol Grille in Golden.

Patching up James

With another recovery milestone reached, my plan is now to continue mellow 13ers in the coming weeks. The hope is to get on more interesting stuff by about mid-May. I need to get reacquainted with steep snow and a heavy pack before my trip to the Pacific Northwest in early July, but for now I’m content with whipping my fat ass back into shape and enjoying time with friends in the hills. Thanks to James, Kate, Ben, Paige and the pups for an awesome day.

The Carrot on the Stick

June 27, 2014. That's exactly five months post-surgery, the timeframe my surgeon gave for a full recovery. If I played a contact sport, and my rehab went as planned, that's when I'd be cleared. So walking around on some glaciers and swinging an ice tool or two should be fine by then, right? It's not like I'll be slinging baseballs or performing swim-moves against Offensive Tackles.

At least that's what I've told myself since the day I decided to have surgery. I'd miss ice climbing, winter 14ers, the beginning of couloir season -- but June 27 wouldn't so bad, because that just so happens to be the sweet spot for climbing in the Pacific Northwest. A hazy outline of a potential trip formed in my head even before I went under the knife, and it continues to serve as the carrot on the proverbial stick.

A return to Liberty Ridge, despite offers from solid partners, wasn't what I wanted. Part of the joy I derive from mountaineering is exploring different places and reveling in new experiences. I'll go back to Liberty Ridge one day, probably soon, but attempting it a second year in a row just doesn't instill the same sense of wonderment. I want to immerse myself in an unfamiliar route and get to know a new slice of mountain. After much research and discussions with potential partners, an extended glacier romp has finally taken shape for June 28 (or 29...or 30...) through July 6.

Mt. Adams: Adams Glacier, Grade III, AI2

 

Adams Glacier

This route is appealing for an obvious reason: I've never climbed Mt. Adams. Much easier options exist on the south side of the volcano, but the Adams Glacier is considered by many to be the most classic line on "Washington's Forgotten Mountain." Basically a giant icefall, the route weaves its away through crevasses and seracs on 40/50-degree snow and ice for 5,000 feet. The technical sections allow access to the easy summit plateau, where the successful climber is rewarded with a half-mile snow slog to the true summit.

The glacier changes from year to year, with trip reports varying wildly from protection-less moderate snow climbing with only a piolet to 70-degree ice pitches with screws and pickets. I'm hoping for somewhere in between. The descent is via the infamously loose and rocky North Ridge. Sam Sala will be my partner on this climb.

Mt. Rainier: Kautz Glacier, Grade II/III, AI2 

 

Kautz Glacier

In terms of difficulty, the Kautz Glacier falls somewhere between Liberty Ridge and the standard DC/Emmons walk-up routes. Early in the season it's a straightforward snow climb, but as the powder transitions to neve and ice, many people prefer a second ice tool. Starting from the Paradise trailhead with the masses heading for the DC, the Kautz route variates at Glacier Vista to cross the Nisqually Glacier. The Turtle Snowfield and Wapowety Cleaver lead to rocky Camp Hazard at 11,500'.

The most dangerous part of the route is traversing under the massive Kautz Ice Cliff to reach the Kautz Ice Chute, a moderate-to-steep section of ice and snow. Above the chute, a couple hours of glacier-walking leads to Point Success and the true summit at Columbia Crest. Our permits are for 6/30 through 7/4, allowing for maximum flexibility. Sam Sala and Keegan Young will be my partners for the Kautz.

Others?

The routes described will take two days each in ideal weather. We haven't bought plane tickets yet, but it's possible we could swing as long as an eight-day trip. The need for weather days is pretty much a certainty in the PNW. If we get a miracle week-long window of bluebird skies, however, we're even looking into options for a third route. The possibilities are endless. Now if you'll excuse me, writing this blog post has inspired me to hit an extra set of rubber-band exercises...