Dawn Sessions: Coors Lite Before Work

The idea bloomed as soon as I saw the 10-day forecast. Highs in the 60s and 70s would likely spell the end of waterfall ice-climbing season, and I wanted a few final sticks.

Speth, John and I had “discovered” the ice in Clear Creek Canyon the prior weekend while driving home from a horrific experience on wilting Silverplume Falls. After traveling 1.5-2 hours to different climbing destinations all winter, I felt a little silly at never having explored the roadside ice a mere four miles from downtown Golden. Worried that the heat wave would melt everything before my next day off, I pinged the usual suspects to see if there was anyone else desperate enough to try pre-work ice climbing.

Initially, there wasn’t.

(I work in Golden and most of my partners work in Denver, so it was admittedly an easier proposition for me.)

Keegan, as usual, came to the rescue. He was freshly returned from a month abroad, and I knew he’d be jonesing to get on any remaining ice. I drove up Clear Creek Canyon on my lunch break, snapped a few pictures and forwarded them along. It was an instant sell. A few minutes later he responded inquiring about the start time and what gear he should bring.

We met at 6:30 a.m. It took longer than anticipated to put on our gear and walk to the base of the climb, called Coors Lite. It was a few minutes after 7 a.m. by the time Keegan started up, with a painted sunrise illuminating the gunsight-like view down canyon.

Sunrise toward Golden from the belay.

The first pitch of Coors Lite comprises three near-vertical steps, the first of which is the tallest at about 20 feet. The second and third only require a couple moves. We caught the ice in surprisingly decent condition, especially on the first step. Keegan topped out after placing only three screws, built a belay and brought me up. 

Keegan at the anchor, belaying from above.

On the third step. (Photo by Keegan.)

We were hoping to check out the second pitch, or at least complete another lap on the first. Unfortunately, we’d already run out of time. I had to be at work at 8 a.m., which is about the time we got back to the cars. Oops. I straggled in 15 minutes late, stayed a bit later than normal and began plotting an earlier return the following morning.

Sam was my partner for Friday. We met at 6:15 a.m. and got going as quickly as possible. It was my turn to take the sharp end, only the second time I’ve led ice. The first was a few weeks ago on a short WI3 bulge at Zapata Falls. Though separated into three tiers, Coors Lite is a significantly longer pitch. There was also much more running water than the previous day. I was admittedly nervous, but tried to rack my harness and start taking swings before my mind fully awoke.

Second lead. (Photo by Sam.)

The fear was soon replaced by the joy of climbing. I sunk two decent screws into the initial step and another more dubious one at the base of the second. The middle step ended up being the crux. There was more running water than ice, and even the solid placements I could find were thin. Luckily, there were good bucket-steps for my feet and I was able to move up using careful balance and equally weighted tools.

I placed a fourth screw in the first thick-looking slab I could find on the flat ground between the second and third steps. The third vertical section was also thin and wet, but came with better protection. I put a fifth screw in a thick bulge and finished to the two-chain anchor.

Of course, I hadn’t climbed nearly as fast as Keegan. By the time Sam joined me at the anchor, it became apparent we’d both need to skedaddle in order to make it to work on time. I didn’t want to be late two days in a row. Sam trotted down the walk-off to sort gear at the base while I rigged a quick rappel; my line was going to stay in place for a few other friends, who had started the morning at nearby Mickey’s Big Mouth, to come top-rope.

Sam on top of the first step.

Rappeling to the base. (Photo by Sam.)

It was a whirlwind effort, but I sat down at my desk just as the clock ticked over to 8 a.m. Speth, Mike, Ben, Andrew and John kept on climbing for a few hours at Coors Lite and Mickey's. Lucky bastards. Extra special props to Andrew, who was ice climbing for his very first time.

Waking up a couple hours early for two days in a row was a pain, but I’m damn glad we went. I doubt the ice was still there Saturday, and with 80-degree highs both Sunday and Monday, it’s definitely gone now. Time to figure out how to not suck at rock climbing and get in shape for summer hiking. Oh, and then there’s that glorious spring snow...